Inside Spain’s epic Easter celebrations: What you really need to know about Spain’s most mesmerising religious tradition

Inside Spain’s most dramatic Easter tradition – Secret chapels, hooded marchers and holy sandwiches.

Every spring, the South of Spain transforms into a stage for one of the world’s most intense and breathtaking spectacles – Spanish Semana Santa, or Holy Week. This isn’t your chocolate egg Easter – it’s brass bands, burning incense, and floats the size of delivery vans edging through ancient streets, flanked by solemn hooded figures. It’s breathtaking, beautiful, and unnerving all at once.

Here’s what you really need to know about Spain’s most mesmerising religious tradition – a mix of devotion, drama and, believe it or not, Tapas.

Hooded robes: Misunderstood by outsiders

To visitors seeing Semana Santa for the first time, the sight of thousands of hooded penitents in long – often white – robes with crosses might send a chill down their spine – especially they’re unaware of the tradition.

The pointed hoods, known as capirotes, date back to the 15th century, symbolising penance, humility, and anonymity. They’re worn by nazarenos, members of local brotherhoods, as they walk, often barefoot, through the streets – some carrying candles, others wooden crosses – in a ritual of reflection and devotion.

Brotherhoods, devotion and the family flame

At the heart of Semana Santa are the Hermandades – centuries-old religious brotherhoods that organise each parade. Each Hermandad is tied to a local church and has its own symbolic float (paso) – some carrying statues of Christ, others of the Virgin Mary.

Joining a brotherhood is as much about tradition and identity as religion. Many members join as children, often following in the footsteps of parents and grandparents. Some floats in places like Seville are accompanied by as many as 550 hooded penitents, stretching for entire city blocks.

The mood may be solemn, but the atmosphere crackles. With drums pounding and the crowd holding its breath, it’s easy to see why even seasoned locals sometimes shed a tear. It’s a very strange feeling unlike anything else in the world.

Floats, faith, and fierce devotion

The floats themselves are incredible. Towering, gilded structures carry lifelike biblical statues, some dating back hundreds of years. It’s live theatre unlike anything else. One shows the moment Christ is stripped before the crucifixion. Another depicts the Virgin Mary in mourning, draped in black lace and gold embroidery. Many of the statues are dressed according to the biblical moment being portrayed – often shocking first-time viewers with their realism. It’s raw.

The processions are gruelling. Penitents can march for eight hours or more, dressed head to toe in heavy black robes, often in the heat of the Andalusian sun. Beneath some of the floats, known as pasos, teams of “costaleros” – hidden carriers – bear the full weight on the back of their necks, swaying in rhythm to the beat of a drum and the cry of a saeta (a mournful flamenco-style hymn).

Sacred spectacle… with beer and a sandwich

For all the pomp and pageantry, Semana Santa is not strictly about religion for everyone. Most Spaniards are not particularly religious, but Easter and Christmas are still the most important times of the year. Many locals see it as a powerful community tradition – part spiritual, part social, and very much about sticking together. After all, this is Spain – and no matter how holy the week, there’s always time for Tapas and a drink.  

In fact, feeding the marchers becomes its own kind of mission. It’s common to see family members of the marchers heroically delivering crusty bread sandwiches (“bocadillos“) mid-procession. The challenge of course, is to identify the right hooded figure among hundreds of identical costumes. Mission impossible? Not in Spain.

Women breaking through tradition

While Semana Santa is steeped in centuries-old tradition, some things are changing. Historically, women played behind-the-scenes roles in brotherhoods. But now, many take their place among the nazarenos too – marching in full regalia, handing out sweets to children, and standing shoulder-to-shoulder with male penitents. There have always been women in the brotherhoods – just not always where you could see them.

When the floats emerge – and the crowd goes wild

Perhaps the most magical moment of all is the “Salida” – when a float emerges from its church for the first time. The crowd hushes, then erupts in cheers and applause as the float inches out through impossibly narrow chapel doors. It’s a tight squeeze every time – part miracle, part masterclass in manoeuvring.

Locals queue for hours to get a front-row seat. Some even pay up to €1,000 for the best views, dressed in their Sunday best and sipping from flasks while the solemn parade rolls past.

The Spanish Legion… and a goat?

And if you think it’s all just robes and relics, think again. In Malaga, the Spanish Foreign Legion joins the action – complete with full military uniform, dramatic marching, and yes… a goat.

Every year, the Legion parades with their mascot, a real live goat named La Cabra de la Legión. The sight of battle-hardened troops proudly escorting a horned companion has become a beloved (and slightly surreal) Semana Santa highlight.

What NOT to do during Semana Santa

Tourists, take note: there’s a right way and a very wrong way to Semana Santa.

Dress up, not down: The Easter processions are a religious celebration, and though many people only go for the spectacle, to many it’s a special time of the year. If you go to the processions, dress conservatively. Locals dress smartly – you’ll see polished shoes, linen suits, and designer sunglasses.

Don’t block the procession routes – and never, ever cross in front of a float. Locals can get very touchy about it (and rightly so).

Street closures are everywhere, so don’t expect to drive or even walk through the city without hitting a barrier. Plan your movements in advance – or better yet, go with the flow and get swept up in the crowds.

And book your restaurant early. Places are rammed, tables are snapped up by 1 PM, and locals make reservations weeks in advance. If you’re banking on a spontaneous bite between processions, you might be left hungry and weeping softly into your beer.

Not religious? No one cares

Even those who aren’t religious admit to being moved by the sheer spectacle and sense of community. There’s something powerful in seeing a whole city come together. It’s about belonging, not just belief.

Semana Santa blends theatre and tradition in equal measure. It’s tapas and tears. It’s Seville, Malaga, Badajoz, Cadiz, Cordoba, and beyond at their most intense, beautiful and baffling.

And whether you’re a believer, a bystander, or just in it for the beer and the brass bands – once you’ve seen it, you’ll never forget it.

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