On September 27, 2024, one of the most destructive storms in U.S. history descended on the city of Asheville and surrounding communities in western North Carolina. With rivers swollen and the ground waterlogged from three days of downpours, Buncombe County simply couldn’t absorb any more water. Hurricane Helene’s winds and torrential rain robbed people of their homes, businesses, and livelihoods. The death toll in North Carolina was 104 people.
Four months after that devastating week, Asheville’s recovery echoes the resilience of its community. The memories haven’t faded. Conversations about the days and weeks after the storm stir a combination of sadness, relief, disbelief, gratitude, loss, and resolve. Making the 20-minute drive into Asheville from the airport, you’ll notice the billboards signaling encouragement, “Western Carolina: Together we will come back STRONGER” and “Western North Carolina Strong.”
That sense of strength is palpable, but fragile. While restaurateurs, hoteliers, small-business owners, and the creative community are hopeful, they know firsthand the toll Helene has taken on the local economy and labor force. For the time being, there is greater dependence on local, state, and federal services to meet the increased needs of the community and to help business owners retain staff.
This January, Greg Sullivan, cofounder of Afar, and I spent three days on the ground in Asheville. What we found is that the city is ready for and already welcoming visitors. While not everything is open and some areas were impacted significantly more than others, we dined at busy restaurants (see below), toured a hotel that was booked solid for a company retreat, and attended a sold-out Asheville Symphony Orchestra “Alternative” (ALT ASO) concert at the Orange Peel, a live and independent music venue, that reflected the spirit of this place.
On our final day, we drove a small section of the Blue Ridge Parkway and met with park rangers at the visitor center to better understand the extensive devastation, what travelers could access now, and how to be safe and responsible, especially during this sensitive time. I developed a new appreciation of building and maintaining a road perched atop mountain ridges and Mother Nature’s constant force upon it.
In addition to artists, local restauranteurs are taking some of the hardest licks, given most are small-business owners and entrepreneurs who survive on the thinnest of margins and don’t have much in terms of reserves. When they lose people or just run out of steam, the restaurant closes and the community suffers.
Hotels have it somewhat easier, especially with owners who are committed to the community and have patient capital. Helene destroyed the entire first floor of the Grand Bohemian Hotel. Taking a hard-hat tour of the property with its general manager, Matthew Lehman, we witnessed extensive destruction confronted head on with the desire and ability to build back better. The hotel is already taking reservations for May and will be hosting Afar’s upcoming company retreat.
Destinations recovering from disaster love to know travelers are coming. They draw strength from it. During our visit we felt the warmth and appreciation reflected back on us. I learned that simply signaling to the destination, “I’m intending to visit,” was a powerful first step. Making future hotel, restaurant, and rental car reservations tangibly gives hope that better times are ahead. Personally, it felt good, and it made my trip more meaningful knowing that we can play an integral role in the recovery process.
While Asheville is four months into its recovery, Los Angeles and its surrounding communities are still just starting to take stock of the wildfire damage and destruction. Victims are now just being allowed to sift through the devastation that was once home. Communities are coming together to help each other. What we now know after visiting Asheville is that recovery following tragedy takes time and perseverance, and we as travelers can actively participate in supporting communities as they turn the page and begin a new chapter.
Where to stay and eat in Asheville
Where to stay
We spent two nights at the Restoration. Conveniently located downtown, it had a fun and eclectic vibe. I enjoyed a nightcap at the Draftsman, its basement bar complete with a two-lane bowling alley. Alternatively, the Radical Hotel has an edgy, funky vibe that feels like an homage to artists. The wall art gives the lobby a strong energy and I loved the DJ cage and stadium seats at Afterglow, its (essentially) lobby bar that will reopen in March. Golden Hour, a wood-fired concept by Jacob Sessons, is a beautiful space with just the right mix of swank and sophistication. It also reopens in March and I want the experiences of both eating at the bar and a table. The new Kimpton Hotel Arras is conveniently located and polished. It doesn’t have a strong sense of place, but I liked the rooms and slept well here on a previous visit for the Asheville Ideas Festival.
Where to eat
Restaurants we ate at included the Med for breakfast (we went there two days in a row); Chestnut for lunch (pairs well with a visit to the Bender Gallery and the Asheville Art Museum); Huli Sue’s BBQ for a casual and fun lunch; the Admiral for dinner (run, don’t walk for the ambience, anchovy tartine, and rib-eye steak frites); and Ukiah for a delicious Japanese smokehouse dinner that would be great to do with a group. Restaurants on our wish list that we didn’t make it to are Tall John’s, Luminosa, Cúrate, and Table. Yet another reason I can’t wait to go back.
