Heading to the Edinburgh Festival Fringe? Here’s where to eat, stay and visit in the Scottish capital.
Stepping out of Waverley station, in the heart of Scotland’s capital, you’ll see immediately why millions of people from all over the world travel to Edinburgh every year.
Ancient, winding streets, historic buildings and UNESCO sites surrounded by natural sanctuaries meld with some of the UK’s best eateries, hotels, shops and, of course, the yearly creative chaos of the Fringe festival, to create a city that has it all.
Whether you’re a lucky local resident, a solo visitor or a travelling family, this comprehensive city guide will tell you everything you need to know about where to stay, where to eat and what to do to make your time in Edinburgh unforgettable.
What to do in Edinburgh
Explore the city underground on a haunted tour
For people who love a good scare, head to the Auld Reekie Haunted Vaults tour. With many seriously spooky stories to tell, your guide will take you into the secret underground vaults where you’ll find out about the city’s dark history of ghosts, witch burnings, the plague and torture that will leave you needing a stiff drink in the neighbouring Banshee Labyrinth pub.
If you’re a history buff and want to walk what remains of the 17th century Edinburgh underground streets, go a little further up the Royal Mile to Mary King’s Close.
Hike up Arthur’s Seat
There’s so much to do in Edinburgh it’s easy to miss the unique landscape that surrounds the city. A hike up Edinburgh’s extinct volcano (which some believe was the true location of Camelot) will gift you a stunning 360 surround view of all the iconic landmarks, and leave you with an appreciation for the majesty of the land.
It’s a fairly short and easy climb up Arthur’s Seat, suitable for kids and older members of the family who are still relatively active. There are a number of routes you can take, some through the 650-acre Holyrood Park and past Holyrood Palace, others following an ancient lava flow.
It’s also possible to hike up Castle Rock, which takes you to another extinct volcano which Edinburgh Castle is built on top of.
Bar crawl traditional pubs and high-end cocktail joints
From traditional Scottish pubs to opulent cocktail bars, Edinburgh is an excellent spot for enjoying a drink or two.
Tonic is an intimate bar hidden down on the subterranean level of Castle Street with an award-winning menu of cocktails and regular DJs spinning everything from old-school R’n’B to disco.
For a proper boozer, take a trip to Sandy Bell’s where you’ll be met with a truly Scottish experience, including a lot of whisky. Or try Edinburgh’s newest secret Speakeasy at Angel’s Share, where you can lindy-bop away to jazz sessions on the dance floor – booking is essential.
Where to eat in Edinburgh
Contini: For an Italian feast
Contini Valvona & Crolla is famed for being Scotland’s oldest delicatessen and wine merchant (and previously appointed by Royal Warrant as a supplier of fine cheese to Her Majesty the Queen). It was founded in 1934 by an Italian immigrant who was the son of a shepherd in the Abruzzo mountains.
Since then, his family has gone on to become ‘food royalty’ in Edinburgh, creating some of the most incredible, affordable, family-friendly restaurants in the city. Contini, sitting right at the top of George Street, is one of these.
Getting its ingredients from Valvona & Crolla and putting them together to create the best Italian meal you’ll get outside Italy, this is one restaurant you can’t miss. You won’t find pizza here, but the arancini, burrata, chicken milanese and tiramisu are to die for.
Kids are well catered to with their own menu as well, but rather than sticking them with the usual fish-fingers and chicken nuggets, they get to enjoy mini versions of what the grown-ups get.
Timberyard: For Michelin-starred Scottish fare
If you want to splash out on a special meal, head to the Michelin-starred Timberyard. A stone’s throw from The Usher Hall, one of Edinburgh’s main performance venues, this is the perfect place to indulge in traditional Scottish fare, crafted with elegance.
Local ingredients sourced from artisan suppliers are used to ensure a sustainable and seasonal menu year-round, making the most of Scotland’s abundant natural larder.
Great news for vegans or anyone suffering from allergies: unlike many other restaurants, you can get everything on the set menu made to fit your dietary requirements.
Yamato: For affordable, high quality Japanese food
Over in Haymarket, be sure to visit Yamato – an exceptional Japanese restaurant tucked away down a side street. Locally sourced, hand-dived scallops and A5 wagyu steak make for a very special meal, particularly when paired with the fabulous range of sake and plum wine on offer.
Despite being extremely high quality, Yamato is very reasonably priced with surprisingly large portions. For £11 (€13), you can get a huge plate of sushi rolls that would be easily enough for lunch.
What to do with kids in Edinburgh
Department of Magic: For wizarding fans
Whether you’re a big kid, or a small kid, the Department of Magic will give you the immersive wizarding fix you’ll need after exploring Edinburgh’s many Harry Potter hot-spots.
Although technically unrelated to Harry Potter, here you can take part in a potions class (where you get to drink your potion in the magical tavern after), try a ‘bewitching’ afternoon tea, or solve your way out of a spell-binding escape room.
The Chocolatarium: For an educational treat
Explore the world of chocolate by taking a tour of the Chocolatarium and getting messy in your very own bean-to-bar making experience.
In this micro-factory you’ll learn all about how chocolate is made and where it comes from, as well as being given the chance to sample from over 40 chocolate flavours in the Tasting Room.
For a grown-up twist, there’s chocolate and whisky (or chocolate and wine) experience too.
The National Museum of Scotland: For ever-changing exhibitions
The beautiful, open, bright architecture of this building alone makes it worth a visit, whatever your age. But the interactive galleries, ever-changing exhibitions and fun event days (particularly throughout Edinburgh’s festivals) equates to a fantastic day trip for kids.
It’s free to visit, with a cafe and rooftop restaurant inside if you wanted to stay for lunch, and so much to do you’ll easily while away the hours; something that can come in very handy on a rainy day.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
It can be tempting to stay in the hustle and bustle of Old Town and bougie New Town Edinburgh. But it’s also well worth choosing a home-from-home among the quaint cobbled streets of Stockbridge, with flower-covered mews houses and fantastic charity shops, or in the newly transformed shore-side of Leith.
If you’re prepared to go a little further afield, in the suburbs of Portobello and Gullane, you’ll find some beautiful beaches too, where you can soak up the sun (if you’re lucky enough to get it), brave a cold-water swim, and enjoy a little of the Scottish countryside.
For something a bit different, hole up aboard Fingal in Leith, a lovely old boat from 1963, turned into a boutique hotel.
Chef Conor Toomey, formerly of Michelin-starred Condita, will be joining their restaurant during the 2024 Fringe on the 23rd, 24th and 25th August.
For a bright, airy vibe in a Georgian town house, try Eden Locke just off Princes Street. And for hedonistic decadence? You can’t miss the opulent and overwhelming House of Gods hotel.
